Torres del Paine[dead link] is a national park in Chilean Patagonia. It is in the southern tiers of the Andes and features mountains, lakes, and glaciers. The rocky Torres del Paine (meaning "Blue Towers" in a mixture of Spanish and local indigenous languages) give the park its name. Other attractions include the Cuernos del Paine mountains, Grey Glacier, Lago Grey, Lago Pehoé, Lago Nordenskjöld, and Lago Sarmiento.
Understand[edit]
Cuernos del Paine from Lake Pehoé
Geology[edit]
The towers are eroded remains of an uplifted region, this created by granite plutons that uplifted overlaying sedimentary layers of which the lowest is a dark red shale. On the southern side the overlying materials he been completely eroded, leing only several tall, rounded granitic towers - these are the actual towers of the park. On the northern side, some of the original materials remain and as these he different slope and color, form the tips of the "horns" seen in the image above. At times in the distant past the area was extensively glaciated; some glaciers remain on the eastern side of the uplift (to the left in the image) and form icebergs that flow some distance into the large and scenic Lake Pehoé.
History[edit]According to the studies made to the Paleo-Indian artifacts found in the surroundings of the park, the area must he been inhabited some 12,000 years ago. The Tehuelche Indians, descendants of the Paleo-Indians ge the name of Paine to the Massif, which meant "blue" in their language.
Lady Florence Dixie, in her book published in 1880, ge one of the first descriptions of the area and referred to the three towers as Cleopatra's Needles. She and her party are sometimes credited as being the first "foreign tourists" to visit the area that is now called Torres del Paine National Park.
Several European scientists and explorers visited the area in the following decades, including Otto Nordenskiöld, Carl Skottsberg, and Alberto María de Agostini.
The park was established in 1959 as Parque Nacional de Turismo Lago Grey (Grey Lake National Tourism Park) and was given its present name in 1970.
In 1976, British mountaineer John Gardner and two Torres del Paine rangers, Pepe Alarcon, and Oscar Guineo pioneered the Circuit trail which circles the Paine massif.
In 1977, Guido Monzino donated 12,000 hectares (30,000 acres) to the Chilean Government when its definitive limits were established. The park was designated a World Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO in 1978.
Fires[edit]
Los Cuernos del Paine
In 1985, a tourist started a fire that burned about 150 km2 (58 sq mi) of the park. The blaze affected the areas east and south around Lake Pehoé.
In February 2005, an accidental fire started by a Czech backpacker, which lasted for about ten days, destroyed 155 km2 (60 sq mi) of the park, including about 2 km² of native forest. The Czech government offered aid after the fire and donated US$ 1 million to reforestation efforts.
In late December 2011 through January 2012, a fire blamed on an Israeli backpacker burned about 176 km2 (68 sq mi) of the reserve, destroying about 36 km² of native forest and affecting most of the areas around Lake Pehoé and the western areas around Lake Sarmiento, but moving away from the Cordillera del Paine, the park's centerpiece. The Israeli government sent reforestation experts to the zone, and has committed to donate trees to replant the affected areas.
Nevertheless, paleoenvironmental studies performed within the park indicates that fire he been a frequent phenomena at least during the last 12,800 years.
Landscape[edit]Beside the astonishing Paine massif and its beautiful peaks, azure lakes, trails that meander though emerald forests, roaring rivers you are to cross on rickety bridges and radiant blue glaciers, not to mention the vast openness of the steppe to rugged mountain terrain topped by looming peaks.
Flora and fauna[edit]Fauna include abundant guanacos, flamingos, pumas, ñandu, gray fox and andean condors.
Torres del Paine National Park Climate chart (explanation) JFMAMJJASOND 29 17 6 40 16 5 48 14 4 42 12 2 35 7 −1 37 6 −2 37 5 −2 23 7 −1 30 10 1 26 14 3 20 14 4 22 17 5 Average max. and min. temperatures in °C Precipitation+Snow totals in mmData for Puerto Natales from climate-data.org Imperial conversion JFMAMJJASOND 1.1 63 43 1.6 61 40 1.9 58 39 1.7 53 36 1.4 45 30 1.5 42 28 1.5 42 28 0.9 45 30 1.2 50 33 1 57 37 0.8 58 38 0.9 62 42 Average max. and min. temperatures in °F Precipitation+Snow totals in inches Climate[edit]According to the Köppen climate classification, the park lies in the “temperate climate of cold rain without a dry season." The meteorological conditions of the park are variable due to the complex orography. But you he to be prepared for harsh weather. Wind and strong sun are also issues, and the weather can go through a full four seasons in the course of a day, as locals say.
Temperatures[edit]The zone is characterized by cool summers, with temperatures lower than 16 °C (61 °F) during the warmest month (January). Winter is relatively cold, with an erage high temperature in July of 5 °C (41 °F), and an erage low of −3 °C (27 °F).
Precipitation[edit]The rainiest months are March and April, with a monthly erage rainfall of 80 mm. This represents double the July–October (winter) rainfall, which are the drier months. A study of the exact chemical components of the precipitation in the park has been carried out.
Get in[edit]
Cycling in Las Torres del Paine
By car[edit]
Warning: The nearest guaranteed gas/petrol stations are in -51.7283-72.50561 Puerto Natales.
There are four main entrances (porterías) to the park.
Ruta Y-156: -50.97951-72.800431 Laguna Amarga – The main entrance to the park, located closest to the Las Torres complex. Ruta Y-150: -51.0041-72.5932 Lago Sarmiento – The least visited entrance located near the banks of Lago Sarmiento. Ruta Y-160: -50.8789-72.73533 Laguna Azul – The northernmost entrance to the park, mostly used by those renting horses for the trails located nearby. Ruta Y-290: -51.2181-72.96894 Serrano – The most direct route to Puerto Natales (approximately 90 kilometers, 1.5 hours, only partially asphalted) and the closest to administration building and visitor center.It is also possible to enter the park via Ruta Y-180/Portería Laguna Verde. However, the road ends here and it is only possible to further enter into the park on foot or on horse. This entrance is more an option for those reentering the park on an already paid pass, as entrance fees are not collected at Laguna Verde.
By bus[edit]Buses run daily from Puerto Natales (two hours), the main connection to civilization. All normal buses pass through Laguna Amarga, where entrance fees are collected and official Conaf maps are given out, before continuing to Pudeto which is the departure point for the catamaran to Paine Grande. At Pudeto those wishing to continue on to the administration building/visitors' center will change to a different bus, regardless of bus company.
The following bus companies in Puerto Natales make twice daily trips to the park in the high season, and all follow the same schedule. Note that all buses lee from the bus terminal in Puerto Natales (at the corner Avenida Santiago Bueras and España). Tickets can be purchased either at the bus terminal or at the addresses listed below. Tickets may include an open return, so don't lose the return ticket stub.
Bus schedule (October–March) Puerto Natales Laguna Amarga Pudeto Administration 07:3009:4510:4511:45 14:3016:3017:3018:00 Administration Pudeto Laguna Amarga Puerto Natales 13:0013:3014:3017:00 18:0019:0019:4522:00 Buses Fernandez, Armando Sanhueza 745, +56 61 242313. Buses Gomez, Arturo Prat 234, +56 61 415700. Buses María José[dead link], Av. España 1455, +56 61 2 410951. JBA Patagonia, Arturo Prat 258, +56 61 410242.In the shoulder seasons (April and September) there is only one departure and return daily (07:30 departure from Puerto Natales and the 1PM return from the administration building), and the public buses do not run in the low season (May–August). It is isable to confirm with the bus companies ahead of time.
From the park there are no direct buses for El Calafate but many tour operators offer them, in particular Chalten Trel. It is thus possible to go directly from El Calafate to the park and even return another day, although this is expensive (US$80 return, US$40 when returning another day).
Fees and permits[edit]There was a significant raise of the fees in 2020. No reduced low seasons fees are ailable anymore and an extra longterm fee (>3 days) was established. Foreigners he to pay 25,000 pesos (35,000 pesos >3 days) and Chilean citizens and residents 7,000 pesos ((10,000 pesos >3 days). If you are in Chile as an exchange student or working for a period of time, just show your Cédula de Identidad (Identity card given by the Civil Registry and Identification Service (Servicio de Registro Civil e Identificación)) to pay the resident entry fee.
Get around[edit]
Map of Torres del Paine National Park
Trail status can be accessed via the informe diario (Spanish only) on the official park website. The main trails at lower elevations are generally open year-round. However, the backside of the Paine Massif Circuit (between Laguna Amarga and Refugio Grey, counter-clockwise) is closed in the wintertime (May–October) due to the absence of park rangers and the difficulty of the terrain. Parts of the W trek (the Francés Valley, the Base of the Towers lookout, for example) are regularly closed in the wintertime due to snow accumulation, even if it is not snowing in other sectors of the park. It is advisable to check the website for the most up to date information.
Generally, most visitors to the park access the main trails (that comprise the "W" trek and the Paine Massif Circuit) either by catamaran from Pudeto to Paine Grande or on foot/by shuttle to Hotel Las Torres from the Laguna Amarga entrance. The main trails can also be accessed from the administration/visitor center on foot to Paine Grande, passing Campamento Las Carretas on the way (colloquially called the "Q" trek). The catamaran Hielos Patagónicos operated by Hipsur runs between Pudeto and Refugio Paine Grande. One-way and tickets cost 23,000 pesos for Chilean citizens and US$35 for foreign citizens respectively, backpack and luggage transport costs an additional 4,000 pesos and must not exceed 50 kilograms. From Laguna Amarga a van runs to and from Hotel Las Torres four times a day in order to connect the Las Torres to the main bus route. The price is 3,000 pesos one way. The shuttle typically lees at 14:00 to get passengers back to their buses by 14:30 to return to Puerto Natales. Backpackers can wait at the Refugio Central and get a hot lunch or relax while waiting.
The Grey II runs between Hostería Lago Grey and Refugio Grey and must be booked in advance (70,000 pesos single ticket for adults in high season).
The rest must be done by foot.
See[edit]
Glacier Grey and a tour boat
-50.9426-72.94971 Torres del Paine. The lookout, Base de las Torres, is a 45-minute hike from Campamento Torres 
-50.9966-73.05332 Valle Francés. Accessed from Campamento Italiano, a three-hour hike one way.
-50.94112-73.184153 John Gardner Pass. Between Camping Los Perros and Campamento Paso, the John Gardner Pass is the point between the Valle de Los Perros (Valley of the Dogs) and the backside of the Circuit, and Glacier Grey.
-50.95-73.254 Glacier Grey. The Glacier Grey can be seen via a short hike out onto a sandbar from Guardería Grey, from the John Gardner Pass, or from Refugio Grey on the "W".
-51.05-72.755 Lago Sarmiento. A large pretty lake with distinctive white banks, a result of calcium deposits.
Do[edit]
Torres del Paine is world-renowned for trekking, with routes ranging from short day walks to multiday circuits. Detailed stage descriptions can be found in Hiking in Torres del Paine.
W Trek - The classic 4–6 day route visiting Grey Glacier, the Francés Valley, and the Torres del Paine viewpoint. O Circuit - A 7–10 day full circuit around the massif, including remote valleys and the dramatic John Gardner Pass. Day hikes - Shorter options include viewpoints near the Administration area (Mirador Cóndor, Salto Grande, Cuernos, Nordenskjöld), the Laguna Amarga / Las Torres approach to the towers, the Pudeto catamaran with trails around Paine Grande, and boat trips to Grey Glacier. Buy[edit]In the park, Hotel Las Torres has a gift shop. There is another one at Pehoé Camping, 30 minutes walk south of the Pudeto bay on the shores of Pehoé lake.
Eat[edit]Refugio Paine Grande has the only combination bar/restaurant on the W trek. Provisions can be expensively restocked at Refugio Grey, Refugio Chileno, and Refugio Los Cuernos. There is a small kiosk at Hotel Las Torres at the beginning of the trek to Las Torres. At Pudeto a small cafeteria is ailable and convenient to those awaiting the catamaran departure.
Drink[edit]All of the refugios along the trek he at least a selection of local beer, wine, and pisco sours for sale to both guests of the refugio and passing hikers.
Sleep[edit]In October 2016, the park implemented a rule requiring reservations for lodging at both private and public CONAF campsites and refugios. This is not at all necessary to enter the park, but rangers will check your reservations when passing ranger stations between campsite and get you turned around if you he no reservation. However, if you arrive after 21:00 to a CONAF campsite that's far from other campsites, the rangers will generally let you stay.
You can make the free reservations for the CONAF campsites at the Torres Del Paine Official Park Website.
Lodges[edit]There are several basic lodges in the park called refugios. Make reservations well in advance if you plan on staying in these. The cost for a dorm bed is about 85,000 pesos.
Camping site at Refugio Pehoe
-50.96561-72.865981 Refugio Torres. Two buildings, Torre Norte and Torre Central, 100 m from each other. Both he 10 mixed dorms sleeping 6 people each and shared bathrooms (total capacity of 120 guests). Bed linen are included, though in Norte you can opt to use your own sleeping bag. Torre Central has a lounge, restaurant, bar and shop as well as central heating and the check in takes place there, whereas Norte is a simpler wood-heated building. In the area there's a campsite as well (Camping Central) (updated Jan 2020)
-50.9575-72.91052 Refugio Chileno. In 2024, Chileno stopped offering lodging services in dorms (refugio), and the facilities he been converted into a bar open to the public, as well as a common area and dining room for guests staying at the campsite. The campsite has increased its capacity and upgraded the tents, which are now safari-style glamping tents. (updated Jan 2020)
-51.0239-72.98543 Refugio Los Cuernos. A refugio with dorm accommodation, a campsite and cabins. There are 4 mixed dorms sleeping 8 people each (still advertising room for 36 guests), shared bathrooms, a restaurant and shop. The campsite has place for 50 tents, and you can rent equipment if needed. Then there are 8 double cabins with made-up twin beds and shared bathrooms for cabin guests. (updated Jan 2020)
-51.072-73.09484 Refugio Paine Grande. The refugio has a capacity of 100 guests in mixed dorms of 2, 4 and 6 beds with the possibility of opting for a made up bed or sleeping in a sleeping bag. Shared bathrooms. You can also find a restaurant, bar and a shop there. For campers there's a campsite with place for 260 guests with a cooking area. (updated Jan 2020)
-51.0082-73.1765 Refugio Grey. Near the Grey Glacier, this refugio has room for 60 guests in dorms for 4 or 6 persons. Also here you can choose between hing bed linen (more expensive) or sleeping in a sleping bag. Bedrooms aren't heated, common areas are. Bathrooms are shared. There's a restaurant with a bar and a food shop. There's a campsite too. (updated Jan 2020)
-50.8795-73.07476 Refugio Vértice Dickson. A smaller refugio sleeping 27 guests, where there again is the option of sleeping in a sleeping bag or bed linen, as well as a campsite. There's a restaurant with a fixed menu and snacks, as well as a food shop. (updated Jan 2020)
Reservation agencies[edit]
FantásticoSur Lodges, ☏ +56 61 614184, reservas@fantasticosur.com. Reservations for Refugio Torres, El Chileno and Los Cuernos
Vertice Patagonia, ☏ +56 61 412742, ventas01@verticepatagonia.cl. For Paine Grande Lodge, Refugio Grey, and Refugio Dickson.
Howlanders: hello@howlanders.com. Independent agency with extensive experience in both the W Trek and O Circuit. We work with both accommodation providers to offer you the best combination at the best price.
FantasticoSur and Vertice will ask for credit card information and charge it two weeks before arrival. There appears to be no cancellation penalty before that. Usually the two companies do not answer email and the best is to arrange bookings at their office in Puerto Natales.
Camping[edit]There are several campsites. Camping near a refugio costs 6,000 pesos or 10,000 pesos the other campsites run by CONAF (called campamentos) are free but reservation in advance is mandatory. All campsites he at least basic toilet facilities (bring your own toilet paper) and refugios he hot showers. Trelers are supposed to be restricted to camping for only one night at each CONAF campsite, but this seems to be relatively unenforced.
Backcountry[edit]Hiking and camping outside of designated areas is forbidden, and will result in immediate expulsion from the park if caught.
Hotels[edit] -50.97316-72.874987 Hotel Las Torres (end of Las Torres a Chileno), ☏ +56-61-2617450, info@lastorres.com. Hotel with restaurant, bar and spa. rates including breakfast from: US$360 (single), US$415 (double) in low season, from US$460 (single), US$515 (double) in high season. (updated Jan 2020)
Stay safe[edit]
Foxes he been known to steal food and belongings, and to bite people, particularly small children. Even among the normally temperamental weather typical in Patagonia, the weather in the John Gardner Pass can be particularly tricky.
Go next[edit] Bernardo O'Higgins National Park - just west and northwest of Torres del Paine, it's remote, big (about the size of Taiwan), and accessible by boat or helicopter. You will he to backtrack through Puerto Natales. Los Glaciares National Park - just north, on the Argentinian side and not far away as the crow flies. In practice this entails a drive of several hundred kms; you he to backtrack through Puerto Natales, cross the border, drive or ride a bus along Ruta 40 to El Calafate (or fly from Puerto Natales) and enter from there. Punta Arenas - Chile's and one of the world's southernmost proper cities and an access point to far southern Patagonia and Antarctica. This park trel guide to Torres del Paine National Park has guide status. It has a variety of good, quality information about the park including attractions, activities, lodging, campgrounds, restaurants, and arrival/departure info. Please contribute and help us make it a star!